Why we use Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

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why we use ascorbic acid

The Gold Standard Antioxidant: Vitamin C

Ascorbic acid, commonly known as vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin renowned for its potent antioxidant properties. In the realm of skincare, it is celebrated for its multifaceted benefits, including neutralising free radicals, brightening the complexion, and supporting collagen synthesis. However, ascorbic acid is inherently unstable, particularly when exposed to light, air, and water, which can diminish its efficacy in topical applications.¹

Vitamin C and the Skin

When formulated effectively, ascorbic acid delivers a powerful boost to skin health, offering benefits that extend beyond basic antioxidant protection. Vitamin C plays a crucial role in maintaining skin strength, radiance, and resilience. Here's how it works:

Antioxidant Protection

Ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant that protects skin from oxidative stress, which occurs due to UV radiation, pollution, and environmental aggressors. It works by neutralising free radicals, preventing them from damaging skin cells, collagen, and elastin. This protection helps reduce fine lines, loss of firmness, and premature ageing.

Studies show that topical vitamin C minimises UV-induced redness and sunburn cell formation, making it a valuable addition to sun protection routines.¹ While it does not replace sunscreen, it enhances photoprotection when used together with SPF. This combination reinforces the skin’s natural defence system, keeping it resilient and healthy-looking.

Brightening and Even Skin Tone

Ascorbic acid helps fade dark spots, sun damage, and uneven pigmentation, leading to a more radiant complexion. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, which helps reduce hyperpigmentation at its source.²

Additionally, vitamin C downregulates inflammation-related cytokines, lowering the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne or irritation. Regular use visibly brightens skin, evens out tone, and enhances overall clarity.³

Collagen Synthesis Support

Collagen is essential for firm, elastic skin, but its production declines with age. Ascorbic acid is a crucial cofactor for collagen synthesis, ensuring proper cross-linking and structural integrity.² Without it, collagen formation weakens, leading to loss of firmness and slower skin repair.

Clinical studies confirm that topical vitamin C boosts collagen production, helping to reduce wrinkle depth and improve skin texture. Over time, it supports skin elasticity, making it look plumper, smoother, and more resilient.

Stability Challenges of Ascorbic Acid

Despite its benefits, ascorbic acid's instability poses challenges for formulation. It degrades quickly when exposed to environmental factors, and formulations often require a low pH (around 2–3) to maintain stability, which can cause irritation, especially in sensitive skin types.¹

In Cipher's vitamin c serum, C-Shield, we utilise an advanced technology to help overcome these limitations: Microsponge^®. This system encapsulates ascorbic acid in a porous microsphere, protecting it from environmental degradation and allowing for a controlled, time-released delivery. This approach enables formulation at a more skin-friendly pH (3.5–4), enhancing stability and reducing potential irritation.⁴ Even with advanced stabilising techniques, ascorbic acid serums should always be stored in a cool, dark place and used immediately to ensure freshness and efficacy.

references

1 Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146. doi: 10.4103/2229-5178.110593 Vitamin C in dermatology.
2 Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. (2017). The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. doi: 10.3390/nu9080866 The roles of vitamin C in skin health.
3 Kawashima, S., Funakoshi, T., Sato, Y. et al. Protective effect of pre- and post-vitamin C treatments on UVB-irradiation-induced skin damage. Sci Rep 8, 16199 (2018). doi: 10.1038/s41598-018-34530-4 Protective effect of pre- and post-vitamin C treatments on UVB-irradiation-induced skin damage.
4 Kaur, N., & Bhatia, A. (2011). Microsponge: A novel and unique approach in drug delivery system. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 2(10), 2924–2930. doi: 10.13040/IJPSR.0975-8232.2(10).2924-30 Microsponge: A novel and unique approach in drug delivery system.