Why we use Glabridin (from Licorice Root)

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why we use glabridin

What is Glabridin?

Glabridin is a highly valued isoflavonoid extracted from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra, commonly known as licorice. The concentration of glabridin in licorice root is notably low, approximately 0.03% by weight, necessitating the processing of substantial quantities of raw material to obtain even small amounts of the compound. This low yield contributes significantly to its high cost in the market.¹

Glabridin for Skin Brightening

Glabridin, a potent isoflavane derived from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), is renowned for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. By suppressing tyrosinase activity, glabridin effectively reduces melanin synthesis, leading to a noticeable decrease in hyperpigmentation and a more even skin tone.²

Glabridin Protects against Oxidative Stress

Beyond its skin-brightening properties, glabridin exhibits significant antioxidant activity. It neutralises free radicals generated by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution, thereby protecting skin cells from oxidative damage. This protection not only preserves skin integrity but also helps prevent premature aging signs such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Is Glabridin Good for Sensitive Skin?

Yes! Glabridin also possesses notable anti-inflammatory properties. It inhibits the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines and enzymes, which helps soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. This makes glabridin particularly beneficial for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin conditions, offering relief without causing further irritation.³

Synergistic Effects of Glabridin

When incorporated into skincare formulations, glabridin works synergistically with other active ingredients to enhance overall skin health. Its multifunctional properties allow it to address various skin concerns simultaneously, making it a valuable addition to comprehensive skincare routines.

Licorice in Skincare History

Licorice has been used in traditional medicine and skincare for centuries.⁴ Ancient Egyptians valued it for its soothing and healing properties. They brewed it into a therapeutic drink for pharaohs and applied it to calm skin irritation and inflammation.

In traditional Chinese medicine, licorice has been a key ingredient for over 5,000 years. It was often used to balance herbal formulas and enhance the effects of other medicinal plants. As a result, it became widely recognised for its ability to reduce redness, irritation, and swelling.

Similarly, Ayurvedic medicine in India incorporated licorice into pastes and ointments. It was applied to the skin to soothe dryness, even out skin tone, and promote clarity. Meanwhile, in Greek and Roman medicine, physicians documented its anti-inflammatory and moisturising effects. They used it in ointments for wounds, burns, and dry skin.

Over time, licorice became a trusted ingredient in skincare traditions worldwide. Its soothing, protective, and skin-rejuvenating effects made it a staple in natural skin treatments. Even today, modern research continues to support its calming, brightening, and antioxidant properties, reinforcing its value in skincare.

references

1 Esmaeili, H., Mirjalili, M.H., Karami, A. et al. Introducing the glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin rich genotypes from the cultivated Iranian licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) populations to exploit in production systems. Sci Rep 14, 11034 (2024). doi: 10.1038/s41598-024-61711-1 Introducing the glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin rich genotypes from the cultivated Iranian licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) populations to exploit in production systems.
2 Simmler, C., Pauli, G., & Chen, S. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160-184. doi: 10.1016/j.fitote.2013.07.003 Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin.
3 YOKOTA, T., NISHIO, H., KUBOTA, Y., & MIZOGUCHI, M. (1998). The Inhibitory Effect of Glabridin from Licorice Extracts on Melanogenesis and Inflammation. Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355-361. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0749.1998.tb00494.x The Inhibitory Effect of Glabridin from Licorice Extracts on Melanogenesis and Inflammation.
4 Fiore, C., Eisenhut, M., Ragazzi, E., Zanchin, G., & Armanini, D. (2005). A history of the therapeutic use of liquorice in Europe. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 99(3), 317–324. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2005.04.015 A history of the therapeutic use of liquorice in Europe.
5 Cerulli, A., Masullo, M., Montoro, P., & Piacente, S. (2022). Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients. Cosmetics, 9(1), 7. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics9010007 Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients.