Why we use Glycolic Acid

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The Basics

Glycolic acid is the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular size. It is a colourless, odourless, and hygroscopic crystalline solid, highly soluble in water. It is naturally present in various plants, including sugarcane, sugar beets, pineapple, cantaloupe, and unripe grapes.

Historically, the exfoliating properties of glycolic acid have been utilised in various cultures. For instance, sugarcane, rich in glycolic acid, has been used in traditional skincare practices to promote skin renewal and brightness. These natural remedies laid the foundation for modern applications of glycolic acid in dermatology.¹

Commercially, glycolic acid is synthesised through methods such as the reaction of chloroacetic acid with sodium hydroxide followed by re-acidification. These synthetic processes ensure high purity and consistent quality for use in skincare formulations.¹

Glycolic acid in Skincare

In modern skincare, glycolic acid is celebrated for its ability to exfoliate the skin by enhancing desquamation of the stratum corneum and inducing biological responses that can help restore skin's integrity. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the epidermis effectively, promoting the shedding of dead skin cells and revealing a fresher, more radiant complexion.² Since glycolic acid penetrates deeply, it is one of the most powerful exfoliating acids. Those with sensitive skin should use sparingly, while stronger peels (10%+) are best performed under professional guidance.

Clinical studies have demonstrated that glycolic acid stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants. Regular application can lead to improvements in skin texture and tone, reducing the appearance of fine lines and uneven pigmentation.²

Glycolic acid in Dermatology

Beyond its cosmetic benefits, glycolic acid has been utilised in dermatological treatments for conditions such as acne and keratosis pilaris, owing to its ability to modulate keratinisation and promote cell turnover. Its role in chemical peels is well-documented, offering a non-invasive method to rejuvenate the skin's surface.³ For this purpose, glycolic acid is typically used in concentrations of 30–70%, categorising it as a professional-grade treatment reserved for licensed medical practitioners.

references

1 Narda, M., Trullas, C., Brown, A., Piquero-Casals, J., Granger, C., & Fabbrocini, G. (2021). Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20(2), 513–521. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13570 Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants.
2 Kapadia, N., & Jain, A. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6(5), 36–44. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review.
3 Valle-González, E. R., Maravillas, M. A., & Castro, M. G. (2020). pH-dependent antibacterial activity of glycolic acid: Implications for anti-acne formulations. Scientific Reports, 10(1), 7696. doi: 10.1038/s41598-020-64545-9 pH-dependent antibacterial activity of glycolic acid: Implications for anti-acne formulations.