Why we use Oleic Acid

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The Basics

Oleic acid (Omega-9) is a monounsaturated fatty acid that provides deep nourishment to the skin, improving hydration and softness. As a naturally occurring component of human sebum, it helps condition the skin and enhance its suppleness, making it particularly beneficial for dry and mature skin types. However, unlike other essential fatty acids, oleic acid’s effects on the skin barrier are complex.

While it does provide moisturisation, oleic acid can disrupt the stratum corneum by altering lipid organisation, which can increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL) when used in high concentrations.¹ This disruption, however, makes it a powerful penetration enhancer, allowing other active ingredients in skincare formulations to absorb more efficiently.^2,3 This property is widely utilised in cosmetic formulations to improve the delivery of bioactive compounds while maintaining a smooth, luxurious skin feel.

When balanced with other fatty acids, oleic acid plays a crucial role in supporting skin flexibility, absorption, and overall skin comfort.

references

1 Jiang SJ, Hwang SM, Choi EH, Elias PM, Ahn SK, Lee SH. Structural and functional effects of oleic acid and iontophoresis on hairless mouse stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Jan;114(1):64-70. doi: 10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00834.x. PMID: 10620117. Structural and functional effects of oleic acid and iontophoresis on hairless mouse stratum corneum.
2 Naik, A., Pechtold, L. A. R. M., Potts, R. O., & Guy, R. H. (1995). Mechanism of oleic acid-induced skin penetration enhancement in vivo in humans. Journal of Controlled Release, 37(3), 299–306. doi: 10.1016/0168-3659(95)00088-7. Mechanism of oleic acid-induced skin penetration enhancement in vivo in humans.
1 Abd E, Benson HAE, Roberts MS, Grice JE. Minoxidil Skin Delivery from Nanoemulsion Formulations Containing Eucalyptol or Oleic Acid: Enhanced Diffusivity and Follicular Targeting. Pharmaceutics. 2018 Jan 25;10(1):19. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics10010019. PMID: 29370122; PMCID: PMC5874832. Minoxidil Skin Delivery from Nanoemulsion Formulations Containing Eucalyptol or Oleic Acid: Enhanced Diffusivity and Follicular Targeting.