Why we use Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

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why we use pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Keeping actives, active

Despite its long, intimidating name, this ingredient is a trusted guardian of formulation stability, ensuring sensitive actives remain potent and effective. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a high-performance antioxidant used to protect sensitive actives from oxidative degradation, thereby extending product stability and efficacy. Its sterically hindered phenolic structure allows it to neutralise free radicals before they can break down vulnerable compounds such as unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, and retinoids.¹

Retinoid Stabilisation

Retinoids are highly effective yet notoriously unstable skincare actives, prone to oxidation when exposed to light, heat, and air. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate has been shown to enhance the stability of retinol and its derivatives by preventing oxidative degradation, ensuring prolonged potency in cosmetic formulations (2). By incorporating this antioxidant into retinoid-containing products, formulators can mitigate degradation and improve the longevity of these actives.²

Affinity for Water and Oil Phases

Although highly lipophilic, this antioxidant dissolves in various cosmetic oils and solvents. When properly solubilised in emulsions, it effectively supports the longevity of both oil- and water-soluble actives. At the oil-water interface, it protects both oil-soluble and water-soluble actives from oxidative stress, making it invaluable for stabilising complex formulations.

references

1 Johnson, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks, J. G., Shank, R. C., Slaga, T. J., Snyder, P. W., Gill, L. J., & Heldreth, B. (2018). Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3_suppl), 80S89S. doi: 10.1177/1091581818803326 Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics.
2 Wang, P. H. M., Agach, M., Libii, M., Chonez, S., Gregoire, S., Lee, B., & Simonnet, J. T. (2023). An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol: A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect. International journal of cosmetic science, 45(5), 581–591. doi: 10.1111/ics.12853 An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol: A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect.