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why we use phospholipids

A Multifunctional Emollient

Soft, supple skin starts with a strong barrier, and phospholipids play a key role in keeping it healthy and resilient. Phospholipids are essential structural components of cell membranes, making them highly compatible with the skin’s natural barrier. Their amphiphilic nature—having both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) properties—allows them to interact seamlessly with both water and oil-based ingredients, enhancing their stability and delivery. This dual affinity makes phospholipids indispensable in skincare, not only for their skin-conditioning benefits but also for their superior active ingredient transport capabilities.¹

Encapsulation and Delivery Through Liposomes

One of the most advanced applications of phospholipids in skincare is their use in liposome technology. Liposomes are microscopic vesicles composed of phospholipid bilayers surrounding an aqueous core, designed to encapsulate and protect active ingredients. These vesicles mimic the structure of biological membranes, allowing for enhanced skin compatibility and controlled ingredient delivery.

Stability & Protection:
Liposomes shield sensitive actives, such as vitamin C, peptides, and antioxidants, from oxidation and degradation, preserving their potency.²
Enhanced Penetration:
Due to their bilayer composition, liposomes integrate with the lipid matrix of the skin, ensuring deeper and more efficient absorption of bioactive compounds.
Sustained Release:
Unlike free-form actives, which may degrade quickly on the skin’s surface, liposomal delivery systems help stabilise ingredients and increase absorption, improving efficacy while minimising irritation.

Phospholipids as Bioavailability Enhancers

Beyond liposomes, phospholipids improve ingredient absorption when incorporated into formulations, even without vesicular encapsulation. Their ability to modify the skin barrier’s permeability makes them ideal penetration enhancers, ensuring that beneficial ingredients reach their target sites more effectively.³

Increased Solubility:
Phospholipids improve the solubility of oil-soluble actives, such as retinoids, allowing them to disperse more efficiently in formulations.
Optimised Skin Affinity:
Their natural similarity to epidermal lipids helps them integrate seamlessly with the skin barrier, reducing irritation and increasing ingredient retention.
Improved Moisture Retention:
As key components of the stratum corneum, phospholipids support hydration by reinforcing the lipid matrix, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and enhancing skin resilience.

By incorporating phospholipids into formulations—either in liposome form or as bioavailability enhancers—skincare products can deliver actives more effectively, improve ingredient stability, and enhance overall skin health.

references

1 van Hoogevest, P., & Fahr, A. (2019). Phospholipids in Cosmetic Carriers. Nanocosmetics, 95–140. doi: 10.1007/978-3-030-16573-4_6 Phospholipids in Cosmetic Carriers.
2 Castañeda-Reyes, E. D., Perea-Flores, M. J., Davila-Ortiz, G., Lee, Y., & Gonzalez de Mejia, E. (2020). Development, Characterization and Use of Liposomes as Amphipathic Transporters of Bioactive Compounds for Melanoma Treatment and Reduction of Skin Inflammation: A Review. International journal of nanomedicine, 15, 7627–7650. doi: 10.2147/IJN.S263516 Development, Characterization and Use of Liposomes as Amphipathic Transporters of Bioactive Compounds for Melanoma Treatment and Reduction of Skin Inflammation: A Review.
3 Deckner, G., & Deckner, G. (2014, August 29). Use of Phospholipids in Personal Care Products. Prospector Knowledge Center. Use of Phospholipids in Personal Care Products.