Why we use Epidermal Growth Factors (sh-Oligopeptide-1)

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why we use sh-oligopeptide-1

sh-Oligopeptide-1: Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)

sh-Oligopeptide-1, also known as Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), is a polypeptide comprising 53 amino acids that plays a pivotal role in skin regeneration. When applied topically, EGF binds to specific receptors on keratinocytes, initiating a cascade of cellular events that promote cell proliferation, differentiation, and tissue repair. This mechanism helps rejuvenate the skin's surface, enhancing its natural barrier and contributing to a visibly smoother, more resilient complexion.¹

EGF Mechanism of Action

EGF functions by interacting with epidermal growth factor receptors (EGFR) on the surface of skin cells. This binding activates intracellular pathways that accelerate the production of new skin cells and the synthesis of structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. These proteins are essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity, and their increased production leads to improved skin texture and reduced appearance of fine lines.

Clinical Efficacy of EGF

Scientific studies have explored the benefits of EGF in skincare. Research indicates that EGF can enhance wound healing and support skin regeneration. For instance, a study demonstrated that EGF accelerates epidermal regeneration, making it a valuable component in wound-healing applications.²

Another clinical trial evaluated the effects of an EGF-containing cream on skin parameters. The results showed that after one week of application, there was a significant increase in skin moisture and elasticity, along with a decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), indicating improved skin barrier function.³

EGF in Cipher’s Eye Serum

Recognising the multifaceted benefits of sh-Oligopeptide-1, Cipher has incorporated this potent peptide into The Anomaly eye matrix concentrate. Its ability to stimulate cell proliferation and enhance skin resilience makes it an ideal component for targeting the delicate eye area, aiming to reduce the appearance of fine lines and under-eye puffiness while promoting a refreshed and vibrant look.

Cipher’s Growth Factor Complex

The growth factors in this complex provide a comprehensive approach to skin repair and rejuvenation. Each peptide plays a unique role, working together to strengthen the skin’s structure, improve resilience, and restore smooth, elastic skin.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 (epidermal growth factor, EGF):
Stimulates epidermal cell proliferation, helping to accelerate skin renewal and repair.¹
sh-Oligopeptide-2 (insulin-like growth factor-1, IGF-1):
Enhances cellular growth and supports fibroblast activity, boosting collagen and elastin production for firmer skin.⁴
sh-Polypeptide-1 (basic fibroblast growth factor, bFGF):
Encourages fibroblast proliferation and extracellular matrix synthesis, improving skin firmness and elasticity over time.⁴
sh-Polypeptide-9 (vascular endothelial growth factor, VEGF):
Promotes angiogenesis, which increases nutrient delivery and supports overall skin vitality.⁵
sh-Polypeptide-11 (acidic fibroblast growth factor, aFGF):
Aids in wound healing and fibroblast proliferation, accelerating skin regeneration and repair.⁶

By working in synergy, these peptides support the skin’s natural renewal process, helping to restore elasticity, smooth fine lines, and promote a rejuvenated complexion.

Common Questions About Growth Factors in Skincare

How Do Topical Growth Factors Work?

When applied to the skin, growth factors interact with surface receptors, initiating a cascade of events that stimulate cellular activities. This process encourages the production of new cells and the synthesis of collagen and elastin, leading to improved skin texture and resilience. It's important to note that while growth factors are large molecules and may not deeply penetrate the skin, they can still exert significant effects by binding to receptors on the skin's surface.¹

Are Growth Factors Safe to Use? Do they Increase Cancer Risk?

Growth factors are widely regarded as safe for cosmetic use and have been extensively studied for their skin-regenerating benefits. They play a natural role in cellular repair and renewal, making them valuable in advanced skincare formulations.

That said, some concerns have been raised about their potential to stimulate unwanted cell proliferation. However, current research indicates that topically applied growth factors do not penetrate deeply enough to influence systemic cell growth. Studies have consistently shown that recombinant human Epidermal Growth Factor (rhEGF) remains localised to the epidermis, where it supports skin renewal without affecting deeper tissue structures. Additionally, a recent literature review found no evidence that topical rhEGF stimulates cancer cell proliferation.⁷

As with any active ingredient, those with a history of skin cancer or concerns about specific areas—such as moles or skin with a history of excessive sun exposure—should consult a healthcare professional to determine the best approach for their skin.

What Are the Sources of Growth Factors in Skincare Products?

Growth factors used in skincare can be derived from various sources:

Human Cell Cultures:
Originally, growth factors were extracted from human stem cells, including those from bone marrow, platelet-rich plasma, or adipose tissue. These cells are cultured in laboratories to produce growth factors that closely mimic the body's natural proteins, promoting effective skin rejuvenation.
Animal Sources:
Some skincare products utilise growth factors obtained from animal sources, such as snail mucin. Snail-derived growth factors have been found to support skin repair and hydration, offering benefits similar to human growth factors.
Plant-Based and Bioengineered Sources:
Advancements in biotechnology have enabled the synthesis of growth factors using plant-based systems or microbial fermentation. For instance, barley seeds can be engineered to produce epidermal growth factor (EGF) that mimics human proteins, providing a vegan-friendly alternative.

When Should I Start Using Growth Factor Products?

Whenever you'd like. The natural production of growth factors in the skin begins to decline in our mid-20s. Introducing growth factor-infused products in your 30s and beyond can help counteract this decline, supporting the skin's regenerative processes and promote skin longevity and strength.

Can Growth Factors Be Combined with Other Skincare Ingredients?

Yes, growth factors can be integrated into existing skincare routines and work well alongside many ingredients. However, when using them simultaneously with products containing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), it is recommended to apply your acid product first and wait a few minutes before layering your growth factors. This is because acidic environments may destabilise growth factors, reducing their efficacy.

What does the "sh-" mean in front of these peptide names?

The "sh-" prefix in front of peptide names, such as sh-Oligopeptide-1 and sh-Polypeptide-9, stands for "synthetic human". This designation indicates that the peptide is a bioengineered version of a naturally occurring human peptide, produced through recombinant DNA technology or synthetic synthesis rather than being extracted from human tissues.

These synthetic human peptides are designed to mimic the structure and function of their naturally occurring counterparts. Because they are lab-created, they offer high purity, consistency, and ethical sourcing, making them vegan-friendly and free from human or animal-derived materials.

How are vegan growth factors produced?

Vegan growth factors are produced through advanced biotechnological methods, primarily utilising recombinant DNA technology and plant-based synthesis.

Recombinant DNA Technology:

In this approach, scientists insert genes encoding specific growth factors into microbial hosts like E. coli. During controlled fermentation, these microorganisms express the desired peptides, which are then purified to achieve high purity and bioidentity. This method ensures the production of vegan-friendly growth factors suitable for cosmetic applications.⁸

Plant-Based Synthesis:

Alternatively, plant-based systems can be engineered to produce growth factors. For instance, barley seeds have been modified to generate epidermal growth factor (EGF) that closely resembles human EGF.

These biotechnological advancements provide ethical and effective alternatives to human- or animal-derived growth factors.

references

1 Miller-Kobisher, B., Suárez-Vega, D. V., & Velazco de Maldonado, G. J. (2021). Epidermal Growth Factor in Aesthetics and Regenerative Medicine: Systematic Review. Journal of cutaneous and aesthetic surgery, 14(2), 137–146. doi: 10.4103/JCAS.JCAS_25_20 Epidermal Growth Factor in Aesthetics and Regenerative Medicine: Systematic Review.
2 Wathoni, N., Rusdiana, T., Hasanah, A. N., Pratama, A. R., Okajima, M., Kaneko, T., Mohammed, A. F. A., Putera, B. W., & Arima, H. (2020). Epidermal growth factor in sacran hydrogel film accelerates fibroblast migration. Journal of advanced pharmaceutical technology & research, 11(2), 74–80. doi: 10.4103/japtr.JAPTR_147_19 Epidermal growth factor in sacran hydrogel film accelerates fibroblast migration.
3 Mayayo, T., Russo, G., Jiménez-Escobar, A. L., Pérez-González, N., Clares, B., Ruiz, A., Tomás-Cobos, L., Valera, A., Gómez-Farto, A., Arias-Santiago, S., & Montero-Vilchez, T. (2024). Microencapsulation, Cream Development, and Controlled Clinical Study of an Upcycled Polyphenolic Extract Combined with sh-Oligopeptide-1. Cosmetics, 11(6), 198. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060198 Microencapsulation, Cream Development, and Controlled Clinical Study of an Upcycled Polyphenolic Extract Combined with sh-Oligopeptide-1.
4 Growth factors in skin creams | DermNet NZ. (n.d.). 16 Feb 2025 from Growth factors in skin creams | DermNet NZ.
5 Lee, H. J., Hong, Y. J., & Kim, M. (2021). Angiogenesis in Chronic Inflammatory Skin Disorders. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 22(21), 12035. doi: 10.3390/ijms222112035 Angiogenesis in Chronic Inflammatory Skin Disorders.
6 Sho Yamakawa, Kenji Hayashida, Advances in surgical applications of growth factors for wound healing, Burns & Trauma, Volume 7, 2019, s41038–019–0148–1, doi: 10.1186/s41038-019-0148-1 Advances in surgical applications of growth factors for wound healing, Burns & Trauma
7 Shin, S. H., Koh, Y. G., Lee, W. G., Seok, J., & Park, K. Y. (2023). The use of epidermal growth factor in dermatological practice. International wound journal, 20(6), 2414–2423. doi: 10.1111/iwj.14075 The use of epidermal growth factor in dermatological practice.
8 Zhao, Q., Xu, W., Xing, L., & Lin, Z. (2016). Recombinant production of medium- to large-sized peptides in Escherichia coli using a cleavable self-aggregating tag. Microbial Cell Factories, 15(1). doi: 10.1186/s12934-016-0534-3 Recombinant production of medium- to large-sized peptides in Escherichia coli using a cleavable self-aggregating tag.