sh-Polypeptide-11

When applied to the skin, growth factors interact with surface receptors, initiating a cascade of events that stimulate cellular activities. This process encourages the production of new cells and the synthesis of collagen and elastin, leading to improved skin texture and resilience. It's important to note that while growth factors are large molecules and may not deeply penetrate the skin, they can still exert significant effects by binding to receptors on the skin's surface.⁴

Growth factors are widely regarded as safe for cosmetic use and have been extensively studied for their skin-regenerating benefits. They play a natural role in cellular repair and renewal, making them valuable in advanced skincare formulations.

That said, some concerns have been raised about their potential to stimulate unwanted cell proliferation. However, current research indicates that topically applied growth factors do not penetrate deeply enough to influence systemic cell growth. Studies have consistently shown that recombinant human Epidermal Growth Factor (rhEGF) remains localised to the epidermis, where it supports skin renewal without affecting deeper tissue structures. Additionally, a recent literature review found no evidence that topical rhEGF stimulates cancer cell proliferation.⁸

As with any active ingredient, those with a history of skin cancer or concerns about specific areas—such as moles or skin with a history of excessive sun exposure—should consult a healthcare professional to determine the best approach for their skin.

Growth factors used in skincare can be derived from various sources:

• Human Cell Cultures:
  Originally, growth factors were extracted from human stem cells, including those from bone marrow, platelet-rich plasma, or adipose tissue. These cells are cultured in laboratories to produce growth factors that closely mimic the body's natural proteins, promoting effective skin rejuvenation.
• Animal Sources:
  Some skincare products utilise growth factors obtained from animal sources, such as snail mucin. Snail-derived growth factors have been found to support skin repair and hydration, offering benefits similar to human growth factors.
• Plant-Based and Bioengineered Sources:
  Advancements in biotechnology have enabled the synthesis of growth factors using plant-based systems or microbial fermentation. For instance, barley seeds can be engineered to produce epidermal growth factor (EGF) that mimics human proteins, providing a vegan-friendly alternative.

Whenever you'd like. The natural production of growth factors in the skin begins to decline in our mid-20s. Introducing growth factor-infused products in your 30s and beyond can help counteract this decline, supporting the skin's regenerative processes and promote skin longevity and strength.

Yes, growth factors can be integrated into existing skincare routines and work well alongside many ingredients. However, when using them simultaneously with products containing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), it is recommended to apply your acid product first and wait a few minutes before layering your growth factors. This is because acidic environments may destabilise growth factors, reducing their efficacy.

The "sh-" prefix in front of peptide names, such as sh-Oligopeptide-1 and sh-Polypeptide-9, stands for "synthetic human". This designation indicates that the peptide is a bioengineered version of a naturally occurring human peptide, produced through recombinant DNA technology or synthetic synthesis rather than being extracted from human tissues.

These synthetic human peptides are designed to mimic the structure and function of their naturally occurring counterparts. Because they are lab-created, they offer high purity, consistency, and ethical sourcing, making them vegan-friendly and free from human or animal-derived materials.

Vegan growth factors are produced through advanced biotechnological methods, primarily utilising recombinant DNA technology and plant-based synthesis.

Recombinant DNA Technology:

In this approach, scientists insert genes encoding specific growth factors into microbial hosts like E. coli. During controlled fermentation, these microorganisms express the desired peptides, which are then purified to achieve high purity and bioidentity. This method ensures the production of vegan-friendly growth factors suitable for cosmetic applications.⁹

Plant-Based Synthesis:

Alternatively, plant-based systems can be engineered to produce growth factors. For instance, barley seeds have been modified to generate epidermal growth factor (EGF) that closely resembles human EGF.

These biotechnological advancements provide ethical and effective alternatives to human- or animal-derived growth factors.