Why we use Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

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why we use undecylenoyl phenylalanine

The Basics

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is a derivative of phenylalanine, key amino acid of the melanogenesis process. This unique molecule has been vectorised to block the melanin formation process. It combats the appearance of hyperpigmentation by preventing the formation of new spots. Over time, it helps to reveal a brighter and more even skin tone. It’s thought to achieve this by suppressing activity of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and beta-adrenergic receptor (β-ADR).¹ Synergies may be achieved with AHAs and niacinamide to speed skin lightening effects and typical results are evident in 1-6 weeks.

α-MSH is vital in the melanin formation process. It binds to a receptor which begins the formation of pigment. Undecylenoyl phenylalanine can stop this binding from happening to halt the process in its tracks. β-ADR also plays a role in melanin formation. Stimulation of β-ADR on melanocytes in the skin results in increased melanogenesis.² Undecylenoyl phenylalanine may function as a “beta blocker” and contribute to a decrease in β-ADR activity, and subsequently, melanin synthesis.²

references

1 Katoulis, A., Alevizou, A., Soura, E., Mantas, N., Bozi, E., Gregoriou, S., Makris, M. and Rigopoulos, D. (2014), A double‐blind vehicle‐controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of melasma in females. J Cosmet Dermatol, 13: 86-90. doi:10.1111/jocd.12089 A double‐blind vehicle‐controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of melasma in females.
2 Sivamani RK, Lam ST, Isseroff RR. Beta adrenergic receptors in keratinocytes. Dermatol Clin. 2007;25(4):643–x. doi:10.1016/j.det.2007.06.012 Beta adrenergic receptors in keratinocytes.