Cipher Skincare 88mph short contact therapy remodelling balm best retinal serum retinoid retinol high dose anti aging treatment
Cipher Skincare 88mph short contact therapy remodelling balm best retinal serum retinoid retinol high dose anti aging treatment
Cipher Skincare 88mph retinal remodelling balm best retinal serum sct short contact treatment with text ingredient descriptors

88mph

Retinal Short Contact Remodelling Balm

21 reviews
US$154
An industry-first, purpose-built short-contact retinoid treatment engineered to deliver intensive results without irritation. An instantaneous delivery system leverages high-potency retinal with synergistic brightening and restorative support to address lines, blemishes, and discolouration. Skin looks clearer, more radiant, and wholly revitalised.

Retinal Short Contact Remodelling Balm

equiv. US$92 per 30ml (industry std.)

Ships fromUnited States

An industry-first, purpose-built short-contact retinoid treatment engineered to deliver intensive results without irritation. An instantaneous delivery system leverages high-potency retinal with synergistic brightening and restorative support to address lines, blemishes, and discolouration. Skin looks clearer, more radiant, and wholly revitalised.

The magic is in the delivery.

It’s like a mask, but it’s not a mask. It’s your core retinoid in a more efficient delivery system. Based on the proven science of short contact therapy, a potent combination of retinal, salicylic acid, and skin brighteners lock into skin in a few minutes flat. Easily scalable based on usage duration and frequency, the skin is noticeably transformed faster and with less chance of irritation.

Key Actives liposomal retinal 0.2%, salicylic acid, ectoin, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, ceramides, hyperforin, phospholipids, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, madecassoside, ximenynic acid, tripeptide-29, panthenol
pH 5.0-5.5
Fragrance none
Skin Type All [esp. mature, hyperpigmented, acne-prone]
Frequency 2-7x/week
When [AM/PM] EITHER [usually PM]
Vegan
Texture
light rich
6

How It Works

88 mph short contact therapy remodelling balm retinal retinaldehyde
[ 01 / 04 ]

nanoliposomal retinoid complex: 0.2% active retinal

key actives 0.2% Retinal (retinaldehyde) in liposomes

88mph is powered by retinal (retinaldehyde), the most potent non-prescription form of vitamin A. This advanced 0.2% concentration, encapsulated in a liposome delivery system, penetrates deeply into the skin while maintaining stability and reducing irritation. Retinal converts directly to retinoic acid, making it significantly more effective than retinol at promoting collagen production, accelerating cell turnover, and enhancing skin strength and durability. By targeting fine lines, uneven texture, and skin thinning, it visibly enhances firmness, clarity, and radiance—delivering impactful results in as little as 2 minutes of contact time.

Advanced Rapid Delivery System

key actives Phospholipids / Active Penetration Optimisers

88mph is truly one-of-a-kind, featuring a groundbreaking short contact therapy system that is unmatched in the skincare space. This revolutionary formula maximises the delivery of active ingredients while minimising irritation. A functional lipid suspension, enhanced by phospholipids and penetration optimisers, drives quick-release retinal, salicylic acid, and barrier-supporting agents directly into the skin during a brief application window. The self-emulsifying formula transforms into a silky milk when rinsed, ensuring residue-free, effective delivery. This unparalleled approach leaves skin plump, nourished, and primed for visible results in record time.

Supplementary Actives Target Uneven Texture and Pigmentation

key actives Salicylic Acid / Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate / Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Beyond retinal, 88mph features a thoughtfully designed combination of brightening and clarifying actives that amplify its transformative effects. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate visibly reduces redness and pigmentation by targeting overactive melanocytes, helping to even skin tone. Salicylic acid enhances the resurfacing effects of retinal by exfoliating within pores and refining overall texture, making skin appear smoother and clearer. Undecylenoyl phenylalanine, a potent amino acid derivative, works to prevent the formation of new discolouration, supporting long-term clarity and radiance. These synergistic ingredients amplify the brightening and clarifying power of retinal, delivering a visibly even, luminous complexion.

Intense Benefits Without the Irritation

key actives Ectoin / Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate / Ceramide Complex / Hyperforin / Panthenol

Restorative and barrier-supporting actives work in harmony with short contact therapy to reduce irritation. Ceramides, panthenol, and ectoin strengthen the skin’s barrier by replenishing essential lipids, attracting moisture, and protecting against environmental stressors, ensuring hydration and improved skin durability. Even with regular retinal use, the skin remains calm and nourished. Hyperforin from St. John’s Wort and bioavailability-enhanced ester of glycyrrhetinic acid from licorice add another layer of soothing action by reducing redness and mitigating signs of irritation. The result is a balanced, rejuvenated complexion with high-performance benefits tailored for comfort.

Key Ingredients

Nanoliposomal Retinal
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Optimised Licorice Root
Phospholipids
Ectoin
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Madecassoside
Hyperforin
Ceramide Complex
Salicylic Acid
Ximenynic Acid
Tripeptide-29
Panthenol
[ 01 / 13 ]

Nanoliposomal Retinal

Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Antioxidant Acne-Prone
Encapsulated in liposomes to ensure stability and enhance delivery, this golden-hued active targets fine lines, loss of elasticity, breakouts and more by supporting skin's cell turnover process.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Hyperpigmentation Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Hydrating Acne-Prone
A water-soluble derivative of azeleic acid with many skin benefits. It has soothing effects, visibly brightens, normalizes sebum, reduces visible redness, and boosts hydration levels.

Optimised Licorice Root

Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Barrier Support
An exceptionally soothing anti-inflammatory active from licorice root. The restorative effects of this oil-soluble ester are stronger than glycyrrhetinic acid thanks to its increased bioavailability.

Phospholipids

Barrier Support
Nourishing skin-identical emollient with water binding properties. They soften skin and assist in delivery of active ingredients.

Ectoin

Hyperpigmentation Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Antioxidant
A cyclic amino acid from extremophilic bacteria. Ectoin structures water into a protective shell around proteins and cell membranes, stabilising them against UV and oxidative stress. It also activates the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway, suppressing α-MSH-driven melanogenesis — reducing pigmentation at the source.

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Hyperpigmentation
A potent brightener, this amino acid derivative binds to melanocyte receptors to prevent the appearance of hyperpigmented spots before they surface.

Madecassoside

Hyperpigmentation Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Antioxidant
From the Centella asiatica plant, this calming soother promotes smooth skin while mitigating visible redness. It also reduces itching and burning sensations.

Hyperforin

Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Antioxidant
An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory active constituent of St. John's Wort. Most impressively, it promotes faster skin recovery by supporting growth and differentiation of keratinocytes.

Ceramide Complex

Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Barrier Support
A soothing blend of three ceramides, soothing phytosphingosine, and non-animal derived cholesterol to boost skin comfort and assist in barrier functionality.

Salicylic Acid

Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Antioxidant Exfoliating Acne-Prone
The optimal exfoliating acid for reducing visible blemishes and lessening the appearance of blackheads and breakouts.

Ximenynic Acid

Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Antioxidant Barrier Support
A rare fatty acid sourced from Australian sandalwood nuts—a sustainable byproduct from the fragrance industry. It calms the appearance of redness and sensitivity by inhibiting skin reactions before showing effects.

Tripeptide-29

Anti-Wrinkle + Laxity Hydrating Barrier Support
A collagen-identical three amino acid peptide that signals skin to generate new collagen. Its unique low molecular weight is able to penetrate the skin's surface.

Panthenol

Anti-Redness + Sensitivity Hydrating Barrier Support
Nourishing vitamin that supports synthesis of vital skin lipids that aid in optimizing skin barrier function. It promotes wound healing, boosts hydration, and reduces sensations of itching and irritation.
Full Ingredients List (INCI)

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Fusanus Spicatus Kernel (Sandalwood Nut) Oil, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters, Aqua, Glycereth-26, Dextrin Palmitate, Phospholipids, Hydrogenated Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ectoin, Salicylic Acid, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Panthenol, Oryzanol, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Retinal, Tripeptide-29, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Hypericum Perforatum (St. John’s Wort) Extract, Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

We are dedicated to providing the most innovative, functional formulations possible and ingredient lists are occasionally updated to reflect this.

How To Use

The Ritual

Massage 2-4 pumps into freshly cleansed, gently towel dried skin for 30 seconds. Leave on for 90 seconds; 2 minutes total. Add water to emulsify and rinse thoroughly. Immediately apply a gentle moisturizer.

Introduce into routine slowly and do not exceed recommended treatment time. Begin with 1-2x weekly use for the first 4 weeks, then gradually adjust frequency and duration to suit tolerance; up to 15 minutes daily for very advanced users. Most enjoy using 2-7 times per week depending on tolerance and experience level.

FAQ

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[FAQ-01] How is 88mph different from traditional retinoid treatments?

88mph redefines retinoid application with its innovative short contact therapy. This method leverages retinal’s rapid conversion to retinoic acid, allowing effective penetration and visible results within a limited application time. By rinsing off after 2-15 minutes, 88mph significantly reduces the potential for irritation, making it a groundbreaking solution for sensitive or reactive skin types. Despite its brief contact time, this approach delivers results comparable to or exceeding traditional leave-on retinoids, addressing fine lines, texture, and uneven tone. Its science-backed formula is tailored for optimal efficacy without compromising comfort, setting a new standard for retinoid treatments.

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[FAQ-02] Is 88mph a stand-alone retinoid, or should I add a leave-on product?

88mph is built to be the only retinoid you need in your routine. It is a complete, stand-alone retinoid treatment. Its high-potency retinal achieves deep penetration and rapid conversion to retinoic acid within the short contact time, effectively targeting fine lines, uneven tone, and texture. This innovative approach eliminates the need for additional leave-on retinoids while ensuring powerful results with minimal irritation. 88mph provides everything needed for transformative skin benefits in a single, science-backed formula.

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[FAQ-03] How is 88mph effective if I wash it off?

Short contact therapy is a proven science. Studies show that retinal absorbs and converts to retinoic acid rapidly, allowing it to support collagen production and accelerate cell turnover even within a limited application window. By rinsing off after 2-15 minutes, 88mph reduces irritation risks while still delivering the transformative results equal to traditional leave-on retinoids. This innovative approach ensures that you achieve visible improvements in texture, tone, and fine lines without compromising skin comfort.

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[FAQ-04] Will 88mph address multiple skin concerns?

Yes. 88mph is precisely engineered to address multiple skin concerns with a powerful combination of retinal and advanced active ingredients, delivering scientifically proven results for smoother, brighter, and firmer skin.

  • Brightening and Tone: Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and potassium azeloyl diglycinate visibly refine tone and diminish unevenness, creating a luminous glow.
  • Breakout Support: Salicylic acid and retinal work in harmony to clear pores and calm blemishes for a smooth, refined complexion.
  • Firmness and Texture: Retinal supports collagen production and boosts cell turnover to smooth and firm your skin.
  • Soothing and Hydration: Ectoin, panthenol, and licorice root calm irritation, while ceramides and phospholipids reinforce the skin barrier, ensuring optimal comfort.

This innovative combination creates a powerhouse formula delivering noticeable improvements in tone, texture, and overall skin health.

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[FAQ-05] Can 88mph replace my exfoliant?

Yes, 88mph’s retinal and salicylic acid work together to promote gentle exfoliation at the cellular level. This dual-action approach removes dead skin cells while unclogging pores, offering many of the benefits of a traditional exfoliant without additional steps. It’s an excellent option for those looking to simplify their routine.

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[FAQ-06] Will 88mph help with acne-prone skin?

Yes, 88mph is uniquely formulated to support acne-prone skin. Its retinal accelerates cell turnover and unclogs pores, reducing the appearance of blemishes and preventing new breakouts. Additionally, the inclusion of salicylic acid sets 88mph apart by further targeting congestion and signs of inflammation, promoting a clearer complexion. This powerful combination not only improves the look of active acne but also diminishes post-acne marks while minimising irritation.

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[FAQ-07] How long will it take to see results?

Improvements in skin texture and clarity can be observed within the first few uses. More significant changes in visible firmness, fine lines, and skin tone typically appear after 8-12 weeks with consistent use (at least twice weekly).

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[FAQ-08] How often should I use 88mph?

It depends. 88mph offers flexibility in both frequency and contact duration, making it suitable for all experience levels. Beginners should start with 1-2 times per week, leaving it on for 2 minutes to allow the skin to acclimate. Intermediate users can increase to 3-4 times per week, gradually extending contact time to 5 minutes. Advanced users may use 88mph daily, with contact times of up to 15 minutes. Adjusting both frequency and duration ensures optimal results while minimising irritation, allowing you to tailor your routine to your skin’s needs.

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[FAQ-09] Should 88mph be used morning or night?

Either! One of 88mph’s standout features is its flexibility. Unlike traditional leave-on retinoids, which must be used at night due to photosensitivity, 88mph’s short contact therapy allows it to be used either in the morning or evening. This versatility opens up your routine to incorporate other actives during the opposite part of the day, creating space for a more customised and comprehensive regimen. Additionally, 88mph can even replace your morning cleanse, as its rinse-off format removes impurities while delivering potent skin benefits. Thanks to retinal’s rapid absorption and conversion to retinoic acid, the balm remains highly effective regardless of when it’s used, giving you unparalleled freedom and results.

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[FAQ-10] Is 88mph only for beginners?

Not at all! While 88mph is ideal for beginners due to its irritation-minimising short contact therapy, it’s also a game-changer for advanced users. Its customisable usage allows you to control both frequency and contact time, ranging from 2 to 15 minutes, tailoring the intensity to your needs. This flexibility enables advanced users to incorporate 88mph more frequently, potentially every day, while maintaining skin comfort. With reduced irritation, advanced users can achieve faster, more intensive results, making it a transformative addition to any routine.

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[FAQ-11] I'm an advanced retinoid user. Can I leave 88mph on overnight?

There is no need. 88mph is specifically designed for short contact therapy, which ensures retinal penetrates effectively and delivers visible results without the need for prolonged application. Leaving it on overnight will not enhance its benefits and may increase the risk of irritation due to extended exposure at the skin’s surface. For best results, follow the recommended usage by rinsing off after 2-15 minutes to achieve optimal efficacy with minimal discomfort.

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[FAQ-12] Can I use 88mph around my eyes?

Yes, but avoid eyelids. 88mph can be used on the under-eye area with care, but it should not be applied to the eyelids. The skin around the eyes is thinner and more delicate, making it more prone to irritation from potent actives like retinal and exfoliating ingredients. If using under the eyes, apply a very thin layer and monitor for sensitivity. To minimise the risk of irritation, start with a shorter contact time and gradually increase as tolerated. Always follow with an eye treatment, such as The Anomaly, to maintain moisture and support skin resilience.

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[FAQ-13] Retinal, retinol, and retinoic acid. What's the difference?

These are all various forms of retinoids. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that enhance cell turnover and collagen production, improving signs of aging. Over-the-counter options include retinol and retinal (retinaldehyde), while prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin, offer stronger effects for medical needs.

Retinol

Retinol requires two conversions in the skin—first to retinal, then to retinoic acid, the active form that interacts with skin cells. This gradual process makes retinol less potent but gentle.

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

Retinal converts to retinoic acid in one step, making it faster and more effective than retinol. It visibly improves fine lines, texture, and uneven tone with less irritation, offering a balance of potency and tolerance.

Prescription Retinoids

Prescription retinoids are the strongest of the group. The most common being tretinoin, or pure retinoic acid, which requires no conversions. While highly effective, they can cause irritation and are reserved for use under medical supervision.

Why Choose Retinal?

Retinal provides a balance of efficacy and gentleness. Its single-step conversion delivers faster results than retinol, potentially with less irritation, making it ideal for attaining transformative skin benefits.

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[FAQ-14] How do I know if I’m purging, overusing my retinoid, or experiencing a reaction?

Purging

Purging occurs when active ingredients like retinoids speed up cell turnover, temporarily bringing pre-existing congestion (like blackheads, whiteheads, or pimples) to the surface. This process is typically limited to areas where you already experience breakouts and should subside within 4-6 weeks as your skin adjusts. If you suspect purging, it’s best to push through and continue use, as this is a sign the retinoid is effectively accelerating your skin’s renewal process.

Overuse

Overusing your retinoid, however, can lead to signs of irritation, such as widespread redness, dryness, flaking, or persistent breakouts in new areas. With 88mph’s short contact therapy (SCT), irritation risks are minimised thanks to its unique delivery system. Even so, it’s important to follow recommended usage and increase tolerance gradually.

Reaction

If you notice persistent redness, stinging, or unexpected reactions like swelling or a rash, this may indicate sensitivity to an ingredient or another issue. In such cases, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

How to tell the difference:

  • Purging: Breakouts occur in areas you usually experience congestion and gradually improve within a few weeks.
  • Overuse: Irritation is more generalised and includes redness, dryness, or sensitivity across the face.
  • Reaction: Symptoms like swelling, burning, or hives are uncommon and should be treated by stopping the product and seeking professional advice.

How to minimise irritation while maximising results:

  • Start with 2-minute applications and gradually increase to 15 minutes as your skin tolerates.
  • Avoid using other exfoliants or other strong actives on the same day unless you’re an advanced user.
  • Pair 88mph with soothing, barrier-supporting products like milky serums or reparative moisturisers.
  • Always use sunscreen during the day to protect your skin while it renews.

If you’re unsure or need advice, feel free to reach out—we’re here to help!

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[FAQ-15] Can I use 88mph if I have sensitive skin?

Yes, 88mph is formulated with soothing and barrier-supporting ingredients like licorice root, panthenol and ceramides to minimise irritation. Its short contact therapy, which allows for control based on chosen contact time, further ensures that even sensitive skin can enjoy the benefits of retinal without discomfort.

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[FAQ-16] Can I use 88mph with other actives?

88mph is a powerful, stand-alone formula designed to deliver exceptional results on its own. While its rinse-off nature allows freedom to use with virtually any other product, combine it with potentially sensitising actives cautiously. For sensitive skin, we recommend avoiding strong exfoliants on the same night to minimise potential irritation. Barrier-supporting products like ceramide-rich creams or hydrating serums pair especially well to enhance results and maintain skin comfort.

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[FAQ-17] can i use 88mph while pregnant or breastfeeding?

No. 88mph is retinoid-based, so it’s not generally considered safe for pregnancy or breastfeeding. It’s the only product in the Cipher line with that restriction. Consult your health care professional to discuss your unique situation.

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[FAQ-18] i stopped using 88mph for a while, how do i start again?

Drop back to the beginner level rather than picking up where you left off: once a week at 2 minutes contact time, building toward twice or thrice a week at 5 minutes over 4-6 weeks. Think of it like taking a break from the gym. You probably couldn’t lift the same weights when you start again. Give your skin the same time to rebuild tolerance. If your skin reacts to reintroducing a retinoid, you may need to slow it down. It may also initiate a skin purge.

So. 88mph. Holy wow. This morning I woke with the plumpest smoothest skin, a couple budding PMS nasties completely flattened. And I actually have that renewed feeling after a laser session and the skin feeeels like it has been resurfaced. But It doesn’t look red or irritated at all. In love.

Mel
Mel @melvivant

Reviews

4.95 out of 5
based on 21 reviews
+ View Rating Breakdown
5
20
4
1
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1
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1-3 of 21 reviews
  1. Review 01
    Love the efficiency of this product being a super quick peel. I have pretty resilient skin and the first couple of times I used this I did have very very slight peeling around the corners of my mouth. I generally...
    (6) (0)
    Limor · Verified
  2. Review 02
    This product has single-handedly transformed my skin. I use it once a week and have been asked numerous times what I’m doing and been handed many compliments. My skin is now smooth, clear and soft.
    (6) (0)
    Sabrina C. · Verified
  3. Review 03
    I love 88MPH. I first tried it in my Boxwalla Beauty Box, and the difference in my skin was amazing. It diminished some of my fine undereye lines and gave my complexion a healthy glow. It's worth it. I am...
    Image #1 from Catt Berlin George
    (4) (0)
    Catt Berlin George · Verified
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